Plettenberg Bay, “Plett”, is the place where the holiday makers – male – wear blazers and cravats, with their spouses, or significant others, rough it with a manicure every third day. Possibly a small exaggeration, but, in season, this is definitely the playground of the affluent. Off season however, the proletariat – and the Minogues – are very welcome. Actually, it is a very beautiful spot.
We left Gariep Dam, having decided that our golf didn’t warrant a longer stay (neither did our Putt Putt!!). Our route took us over the Bamboesberg to Cradock via Venterstad, Steynsburg, and Hofmeyr. A fascinating trip, and with the little dorp of Venterstad in particular, a spot to visit in the future. It is quite amazing how the scenery suddenly changes from dry bushveld to lush greenery from one side of the mountain range to the other.
Unfortunately, Cradock did not impress, it is one of the very few towns in which we have felt uneasy. After shopping we came back to find the Landy being leant on and surrounded by a group of very unsavoury characters. Sean had to call upon his newly acquired expertise in Afrikaans to ask them to go away. The Afrikaans use 3 letter words not 4
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Boesmansrivier, where we were to meet the Pollock clan, is a beautiful spot. The caravan park, unfortunately, is not actually on the river, but is very pleasant – lots of indigenous trees and bush. The river itself is open to the sea with the older Boesmansrivier on the South bank and the more modern Kenton-on-Sea on the North bank. Fishing is supposed to be good but didn’t live up to that reputation whilst we were there. Enrico and Sean did actually catch what may be technically termed as fish. To save embarrassment we will not go into further detail. A festive time was had by all. Ken’s cake was duly adorned by the appropriate number of candles – the blaze was seen in East London, and 3 ships went aground after thinking we were Cape Recife light house.
Sadly, Sean’s digital camera decided to turn up its toes, so we have no photos to send on (Sounds of relieved cheers from all quarters). However, we now have Jean’s. Beth took it back to Whysalls in Durban as it was still under guarantee, but they have just told us that it must be send back to Japan and will take another 6 weeks. They would have replaced it but it seems that that model – bought less than a year ago – is already outdated. The mind boggles! the latest model has 25 million pixels or whatever (Those ruddy fairies breed like flies – they really should put something in their tea!)
Whysalls have really been quite good about the whole affair though. They are lending us a Minolta which is on the way to us by kind favour of Joe Calitz. So there you are, the next letter will have pictures (Loud groans)
After Ken’s party we rendezvoused with Mike Brown at Cape St. Francis. He was staying at Duncan Davies’ beach house disguised as a mansion situated in a private reserve some 10 km due west of the Cape. It is really a wonderful place but the 8 km drive from the road along a track through the Port Jackson and fynbos proved an interesting journey with the van.
Duncan Davies’ beach house
Our days were spent fishing and walking along the shore and through the bush. The coast here is very rugged and the shore scattered with various jetsam, but also, sadly, wreckage.
Chokka boats
As, on the West Coast, the diamond boats are ever present, here on the East Coast, they are replaced by the Chokka (Squid) boats. These craft are normally cats with a length of about 12/15 metres long and a beam of 4 metres. They carry a crew of up to 24 and go to sea for a week at a time! A shoal? of squid will be picked up on the fish finder and the duty crew will line the rails on either side with handlines already tied off at the correct depth. The bait is a lure with two sets of back facing spikes – like a drain cleaner. The unfortunate squid tries to cuddle up to the lure and is then hauled on board – hour after hour – day after day. At night fishing is done under very bright lights and the boats light up the whole coast. Apparently, the crews and skippers make quite good money, but under those conditions they should. Not so long ago Chokka was really only used commercially as bait, but now most restaurants will have Calamari on the menu, so you can see, the demand is very big.
It is quite a hazardous life, hence the recent loss of the Chokka boat “Witch Way”, in this area. Interestingly the crews’ families are still demanding that the NSRI maintain the search for bodies although the boat went down over 2 weeks ago. The families’ point of view is understandable, but they should really be talking to someone else other than the NSRI. Those chaps, all unpaid volunteers and from a voluntary unsubsidised organization, had already been out for 4 days on a trot. Ironically when, a couple of years back during the Maritime Conference, there was a move for the shipping industry as a whole to financially support the NSRI, it was the fishing sector that objected.
Bait from the Krom River, Sean, Mike and Henry Brown
On to more cheerful topics. There are Cape Clawless Otters in this area. We had a number of sightings, but one was memorable. Mike and Sean were down at the rocks unsuccessfully threatening the fish population, when an otter stuck its head out of the water within metres of Mike’s feet. It played around in front of us for about 15 mins. Popping up every now and then to check us out and to chew on a mussel, quite unperturbed by our presence.
The area is also famous (some may say notorious) for its Puff Adders. Mike did his very best to find some for us but, to his disappointment, was unsuccessful. He had been such a good host up to then, that we felt sorry for him and resolved to ease his pain.
Last Thursday we left the cottage, we to head for places South, and Mike for Durban. We set off a couple of hours before Mike, and the plan was to leave the key to the reserve gate under a big flat stone nearby. What an opportunity to resolve our buddie’s disappointment at the lack of Puffies! Out came our spare rubber snake (Monkey deterrent), and Jean coiled it, rather artistically we thought, around the key and carefully covered it with the stone.
We really regret that we were not around to hear our friend’s cries of delight when he found our present. He did call us later on the cell phone and sounded strangely cross and even threatening – must have been a bad line.
Our next port of call was Arch Rock caravan park at Keurboomstrand. A really lovely spot on a magnificent beach. The trouble was that at this time of year the sun disappears behind the cliffs very early and it’s quite cold. We therefore moved on to the Aventura Eco, where we are now on a sunny site right alongside the Keurbooms river, surrounded by Knysna Louries. Oddly enough we never hear them call though.
Heron at Keurboomstrand
Sean can actually sit outside the van with a Scotch in his hand and cast into the river. Not that there’s a fish within miles from here, but it’s still a great way to fish.
Aventura campsite and an ever-hopeful seagull.
Yesterday we took Misafi and cruised up the river for an hour and a half. Winding through the hills covered in indigenous bush, very nice.
We will stay here for another couple of days and then hope to meet of with Joe and Ethel Calitz, where else than at Calitzdorp. (A lekker spot for wine!)