3.6: 20th April 1999: We’re at Gariep Dam

Where, we hear you say, is Gariep Dam?

Well, it’s 35 km outside Colesburg, it’s on the Free State, Northern Cape border, and it is still known, by the politically incorrect, as the Hendrick Verwoerd Dam. Apart from that it is one ginormous dam on the Orange River. Very big indeed, and very scenic, because the hilly terrain lends itself to a number of islands and attractive bays. We are staying at the Aventura Midwaters Resort, our awning is less than a meter from the water’s edge, and we overlook the yacht harbour. We more or less, have the place to ourselves, and pay the princely sum of R 28 per night for the privilege. Pensioner Specials again! Tomorrow we leave for Bushman’s River mouth to meet up with the Pollock family, and celebrate brother Ken’s Big 5, and then down to Cape St. Francis to meet up with Brown. (This time it’s Minogue’s turn to catch the fish.)

After we left Port Nolloth, we headed North to Alexander Bay, then about 27 km inland along the Orange to a farm called Brandkaros (Burnt Blanket) (for our friends in the States, that’s what happened when the Apache spoke too long on the phone).

Brandkaros, is, as is everything in this part of the world, owned by the diamond people, Alexkor. It’s a citrus farm, and along with a few other associate farms, drives a deep green wedge inland from the coast through the desert along the banks of the Orange.

Brandkaros has a really pleasant caravan park. Green and shady, and with all the facilities. The main man here is Dino. Dino a cousin of Walt Disney’s Timon, and the companion of the manager’s two young children, is a Suricate. He stands about a foot high on his hind legs. Every day he would visit us and check us out for such delicacies as snails, worms, or the odd centipede. Other than that, his main recreation was playing cricket with the kids – a great fielder.

Dino in the outfield

Whilst at Brandkaros we managed to do a short trip with Misafi (sans motor) down the Orange for about 10 km. Not particularly dramatic, but pleasant and peaceful. We also travelled the 60 odd km to the Richtersveld National Park, and travelled through it for about a 100 km. Now that scenery is really dramatic, a true desert wilderness, but very beautiful. The camp sites have no facilities whatsoever and are only accessible by 4 x 4 vehicles. We visited Die Hoop on the banks of the river and are itching to get back there.

Road through the Richtersveld

De Hoop camp.

Having spent 4 days at Brandkaros and the Richtersveld, we headed back South to Port Nolloth and then inland to Springbok again. It was a very hot day and we laboured a bit through the mountain passes. From Springbok through the plains of Namaqualand past Aggeneys, Pofadder, Kakamas and on to Upington. Here we spent a few days at Die Eiland caravan park, in order, amongst other things, to replenish our stock of Oranjierivierkelders cheap plonk. Upington is a pleasant enough town, but nothing special to report.

Springbok campsite

Anyone following our progress on the map may well ask “Where the Hell are they going?”. A very good question. Well as we told you earlier, we are on our way to brother Ken’s birthday party on the East Coast, and we’re just “sommer” meandering. We did have a bit of a Hiccup (or Hiccough) when we left Upington. After being on the road for an hour, the Landy developed a high-pitched squeal. Here we go again. Into the side of the road, open the bonnet, and accusing stares into the offending interior. Not too big a problem this time, only a seized bearing on the guide pulley for the air-conditioning fan belt. Cut the belt, do without the aircon, and we’re on our way again. Aided we must confess by cell-phoned instructions from Land Rover World in Durban. (A big improvement on F*******ks)

We were to spend the night at Prieska, but not Die Bos – bad experience last time -. Unfortunately, we couldn’t find anywhere else. Never mind, we’ll go on to De Aar. Great! the caravan camp at De Aar was an overgrown jungle enclosed by barbed wire and secured by a padlocked gate. Heigh Ho! We’ll just have to go on to Colesburg. We arrived there after dark and found a very desolate and unattended park on the wrong side of town. At least the water was hot.

In daylight the Colesburg park was not too bad. We decided to stay on another day and explore. Colesburg was a frontier town dating from the early 1800s, it is an interesting mix of Victorian and modern, built onto the side of a hill, with large, paved drains (similar to monsoon drains in the east) running down the side of the road. Obviously when it does rain, it really rains. The surrounding countryside is very hilly with patches of semi-desert and bushveld. One place of real interest in Colesburg is the Horse and Mill public house. A truly convivial spot, where we had lunch on Saturday, and ended up watching the Natal Sharks play the Bulls later that afternoon.

We have now only progressed 35 km to Gariep Dam. Yesterday and today, we played golf – not very well at all.

20th April 1999: We’re at Gariep Dam

Where, we hear you say, is Gariep Dam?

Well, it’s 35 km outside Colesburg, it’s on the Free State, Northern Cape border, and it is still known, by the politically incorrect, as the Hendrick Verwoerd Dam. Apart from that it is one ginormous dam on the Orange River. Very big indeed, and very scenic, because the hilly terrain lends itself to a number of islands and attractive bays. We are staying at the Aventura Midwaters Resort, our awning is less than a meter from the water’s edge, and we overlook the yacht harbour. We more or less, have the place to ourselves, and pay the princely sum of R 28 per night for the privilege. Pensioner Specials again! Tomorrow we leave for Bushman’s River mouth to meet up with the Pollock family, and celebrate brother Ken’s Big 5, and then down to Cape St. Francis to meet up with Brown. (This time it’s Minogue’s turn to catch the fish.)

After we left Port Nolloth, we headed North to Alexander Bay, then about 27 km inland along the Orange to a farm called Brandkaros (Burnt Blanket) (for our friends in the States, that’s what happened when the Apache spoke too long on the phone).

Brandkaros, is, as is everything in this part of the world, owned by the diamond people, Alexkor. It’s a citrus farm, and along with a few other associate farms, drives a deep green wedge inland from the coast through the desert along the banks of the Orange.

Brandkaros has a really pleasant caravan park. Green and shady, and with all the facilities. The main man here is Dino. Dino a cousin of Walt Disney’s Timon, and the companion of the manager’s two young children, is a Suricate. He stands about a foot high on his hind legs. Every day he would visit us and check us out for such delicacies as snails, worms, or the odd centipede. Other than that, his main recreation was playing cricket with the kids – a great fielder.

Dino in the outfield

Whilst at Brandkaros we managed to do a short trip with Misafi (sans motor) down the Orange for about 10 km. Not particularly dramatic, but pleasant and peaceful. We also travelled the 60 odd km to the Richtersveld National Park, and travelled through it for about a 100 km. Now that scenery is really dramatic, a true desert wilderness, but very beautiful. The camp sites have no facilities whatsoever and are only accessible by 4 x 4 vehicles. We visited Die Hoop on the banks of the river and are itching to get back there.

Road through the Richtersveld

De Hoop camp.

Having spent 4 days at Brandkaros and the Richtersveld, we headed back South to Port Nolloth and then inland to Springbok again. It was a very hot day and we laboured a bit through the mountain passes. From Springbok through the plains of Namaqualand past Aggeneys, Pofadder, Kakamas and on to Upington. Here we spent a few days at Die Eiland caravan park, in order, amongst other things, to replenish our stock of Oranjierivierkelders cheap plonk. Upington is a pleasant enough town, but nothing special to report.

Springbok campsite

Anyone following our progress on the map may well ask “Where the Hell are they going?”. A very good question. Well as we told you earlier, we are on our way to brother Ken’s birthday party on the East Coast, and we’re just “sommer” meandering. We did have a bit of a Hiccup (or Hiccough) when we left Upington. After being on the road for an hour, the Landy developed a high-pitched squeal. Here we go again. Into the side of the road, open the bonnet, and accusing stares into the offending interior. Not too big a problem this time, only a seized bearing on the guide pulley for the air-conditioning fan belt. Cut the belt, do without the aircon, and we’re on our way again. Aided we must confess by cell-phoned instructions from Land Rover World in Durban. (A big improvement on F*******ks)

We were to spend the night at Prieska, but not Die Bos – bad experience last time -. Unfortunately, we couldn’t find anywhere else. Never mind, we’ll go on to De Aar. Great! the caravan camp at De Aar was an overgrown jungle enclosed by barbed wire and secured by a padlocked gate. Heigh Ho! We’ll just have to go on to Colesburg. We arrived there after dark and found a very desolate and unattended park on the wrong side of town. At least the water was hot.

In daylight the Colesburg park was not too bad. We decided to stay on another day and explore. Colesburg was a frontier town dating from the early 1800s, it is an interesting mix of Victorian and modern, built onto the side of a hill, with large, paved drains (similar to monsoon drains in the east) running down the side of the road. Obviously when it does rain, it really rains. The surrounding countryside is very hilly with patches of semi-desert and bushveld. One place of real interest in Colesburg is the Horse and Mill public house. A truly convivial spot, where we had lunch on Saturday, and ended up watching the Natal Sharks play the Bulls later that afternoon.

We have now only progressed 35 km to Gariep Dam. Yesterday and today, we played golf – not very well at all.

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