Now you all know where Jongensfontein is don’t you? Possibly our Greek and Texan expats may have forgotten, so we’ll remind you.
Jongensfontein (sometimes known as Groot Jongensfontein – where the Groot comes from we know not) is a small seaside settlement a few kms South West of Stilbaai.
Groot Jongensfontein
Stilbaai, in turn is a fascinating little holiday town and fishing harbour on what was once the Kafferkuils river (we have still to establish the new name but are damn sure that it’s not called that now). Once the territory of the strandloper and the odd hottentot rustler, Stilbaai was built up as a holiday destination for the Riversdale farmers. There are 3 caravan parks in the area. One is up-river and definitely worth a visit, the other, on the east bank of the town is quite ordinary, and the third, at Jongensfontein is where we are. We are currently sitting outside the van, watching a couple of seals play in the surf, some 100 metres away, and simmering our supper on the stove.
Eat your heart out Norma Smith, because tonight we are having Volstruis Kniee Bredie (Ostrich Knee Stew). Honestly! Would we lie to you? (Well, Sean might, but Jean wouldn’t). That is exactly what’s cooking on the stove. We’re told that it’s very similar to Ox tail. The only similarity we can see right now is that Ostriches’ knees bend backwards so that both delicacies come from the wastage disposal end. We bought them at the butchery of the Little Karoo town of Calitzdorp where we were also introduced to Karoo Oysters aka Pofadder. This is a gourmet concoction of minced sheep’s liver (and other bits), rolled into a ball and enclosed in a netting of stomach fat. You slap them on the braai until the fat reduces and Voila! Marvellous stuff. Wel,l we and the Calitzs survived those, so we’ll probably be all right with the Volstruis Kniee too.
When we last wrote we were in Plettenberg Bay. After that we moved up to George to meet up with the Calitz seniors, who were visiting Joe’s stepmother. We stayed at the George Tourist Resort, which was right in town and a spot that we would normally have avoided. In fact, it was excellent and run by some very pleasant and helpful people.
You may recall that last time we were in this area we commented that it was nice but not really Africa. Another mistake! We had been concentrating on the coast. This time we turned inland and explored the numerous mountain passes in the area. Some of these are tarred and, like the Outeniqua Pass, are major highways, others, like the Prince Alfred Pass are single track dirt roads. They are all spectacular and major feats of engineering. A number of them were constructed in the mid 1800s by Thomas Bain and 200 odd convicts. Prior to that, the route inland from the coast was a number of days journey around the mountain ranges, or straight over the top! – a rather hazardous option, even with 16 oxen to a wagon. Anyway, the next time that any of you are in the George/Knysna take time to explore the passes.
The George Museum has a room dedicated to models of all the passes which were built and researched by volunteers (the models not the passes). The room originally held the P.W.Botha Collection, including gifts given to him by foreign dignitaries. Now that would have been interesting! Wonder what he got from Maggie T? Anyway, in view of current events it was deemed expedient and politic to remove the collection and replace it with something else – hence the passes.
We left George and crossed the Robinson Pass into the Little Karoo and Calitzdorp, via the old concrete road. T.V. Bulpin tells a lovely story of an event actually minuted in a meeting of the Roads Department in 1945. It seems that Italian POWs were working on the Robinson Pass renovations, and complaints had been laid that they were fraternising rather heavily with the local, coloured ladies. The meeting minuted that no action should be taken as, “boys would be boys” and it would after all improve the singing voices of the local community.
Neighbours in the Spa
We stayed at the Calitzdorp Spa, a very nice spot about 20 kms outside town. Our camp was surrounded by Springbok and Peacocks – the latter, by the way, are very fond of Bokkems. The town itself is really nice. On driving through on the main road, it would appear to be the ordinary run of the mill Karoo dorp, but move off the main street and you have a lovely little spot, full of beauty and character. You also have 3 very acceptable Wineries. In fact, Calitzdorp is said to be the Port Wine capital of S.A. – according to Calitzdorp.
Peafowl scoffing Bokkems.
Apart from the vineyards, this area abounds with small – and not so small – Ostrich farms and is surrounded by the Outeniqua Mountains on one side and the Swartberg on the other. We spent some time here exploring. More country roads and passes. In particular the Seven Week Pass (Sewe Week Poort) which winds inland from Ladismith (spelt this way to avoid confusion with Ladysmith in Natal – same lady, different towns) toward Laingsburg. This pass follows the route of the valley whereas the others tend to take the mountains head on. Nevertheless, it is very beautiful and worth a detour.
Seven Week Pass
We’ve now had enough of Passes and are back by the sea. Tomorrow we head for the wine lands. Where in the wine lands? No idea. We’ll just see where we end up. Should be back in Durban about mid June.
By the way did you know it was the year of the “older person”? We mention this because we’re quite worried about our friend Revel, who seems to be going through some form of senile dementia. You may remember that he cycled the Cape Argus and needed several hours of resuscitation in the beer tent. Well, he’s just gone and cycled non-stop through Lesotho in 25 and a half hours. Could it be that the speed and the non-stop bit was because the locals threw stones at him? Well done Revel – but your timing wasn’t too good. They’re still a bit upset with us for invading their country.