We’ve eventually arrived on the West Coast, having set off in this direction nearly six weeks ago! Our course has meandered somewhat.
Our days at Wilderness were very pleasant. Misafi was inflated, and we paddled (motors, particularly noisy ones like our Seagull, are frowned upon), up and down the Touw River, watching the Louries, and through the Serpentine Channel to the lakes. The Channel was very similar to the Okavango – without the nasties. Just in case some of you have a mind picture of the Minogue’s paddling for days – forget it – our longest expedition lasted 2 hours each way. We also managed a Steam Train trip from George to Knysna on the Outeniqua Choo Tjoe. Beautiful scenery, but not really Africa. Apart from the weather, you could be in England.
Outeniqua Choo Tjoe crossing Touws River.
We left Wilderness and headed off to Glentana, a seaside village between George and Mossel Bay. Really a nice spot. Unfortunately, South from Glentana to the Great Brak River, the coastline is a continuous strip of holiday homes. North, however, is a different matter, rocky coves, deserted beaches, and mussels on the rocks. Back in Africa again. A couple of kms up the beach is the wreck of the first floating dock built for Durban. Built in UK in 1902, she came to an embarrassing end on her delivery voyage. What is fascinating about the wreck is that she has been there for almost 100 years and is still recognisable. The double bottoms, although somewhat holey, are still more or less intact. They don’t make ships the way they used to. The one and only store at Glentana is unique in that it has a little pub tucked away in amongst the storerooms at the back – very cosy.
Floating dock wreck 1902.
Mossel Bay is definitely not the same place Sean visited 30 odd years ago, it has grown beyond recognition. There was a charming monument in the harbour to those lost on the Voortrekker, including the ship’s cat. For those of you who don’t know the story, the Voortrekker was a supply vessel which capsized off Mossel Bay a couple of years ago. The majority of the officers and crew were lost, with the exception of the Chief and Second Engineers. The Second Engineer was Peter Tighe (A few of you will remember him from our coastal days). He, the Chief and one of the engine room crew were below when the vessel turned over and were trapped for 24 hours. Peter eventually got them out by diving down the flooded escape hatch, clearing it of debris, and forcing the clamps open. Peter and the Chief then swam down the hatch and out, with Peter dragging the crew man with him, but unfortunately the poor fellow had insisted on wearing a life jacket because he couldn’t swim. The jacket forced him up against the ship’s decking and he didn’t make it. Peter and the Chief popped up like corks under the astonished noses of the rescue crew who had given up hope of any survivors.
Quite a feat, especially when you consider that Peter was 60 at the time.
After a week at Glentana we decided that we should really get back on track and set course for Clanwilliam, via Swellendam, a very pretty town where we would overnight.
At Swellendam disaster struck. The ruddy computer – the new replacement from Australia – went on the blink. The Hard Disk started to make death rattle type noises and refused to do anything else. This after us having spent weeks restoring all our data from the last debacle. (The first Clever Dick who says “But surely you had it all Backed Up?” will be shot). Only one thing to do, alter course again and head for Cape Town and professional help. Which we duly did.
Fish Hoek across False Bay from Millers Point
Our base in Cape Town was at Millers Point, an excellent – and remarkably cheap – park a few kms outside Simonstown. The computer experts confirmed the worst. The Hard Drive was on its way out, and worst, the bad clusters included the FAT files (File Allocation Table). Basically this means that the majority of the files are still there but may be damaged (and they were), and the computer cannot always find them. All right! The computer is still in warranty, we’ll contact KTX. Marvellous, KTX have gone into liquidation!
To cut a long story short, we now have a new computer, and lighter pockets.
We decided to enjoy Cape Town in any event and were able to see the Mathesons and Marilyn Linnow.
Michael M. came through to join his new ship Nomzi, and we were able to have lunch together and visit the aquarium. What a wonderful place the Two Oceans Aquarium is. Not just a glorified goldfish bowl – very impressive.
Now at last we are in Clanwilliam. Ensconced in a very fancy house on the lake that our friend Larry du Toit has laid on for us. Misafi has been re-inflated, the Seagull dusted off, and we eagerly await evening meals of fresh Bass. Time will tell.