Well, after a few months back in Durban, we’ve hit the trail again, and are currently camped in the garden of Ijapo farm at Chegutu in Zimbabwe.
Our sojourn in Durban wasn’t exactly uneventful. We managed a flying visit to the Kruger Park at Crocodile River with the Calitz seniors (plus our mutual granddaughter Kerryn), then back to Durban in time to see the Smiths and most of the Houston section of the family.
Sally M. came out from London for a month, Michael M. was on leave from Safmarine, and Fiona and Keith were able to take leave (Kerryn bunked school, but at four and a half we doubt if it will go on her record). Consequently, we were able to go off on holiday as a complete family unit for the first time in years. It was particularly nice for the youngsters that they would be able to use this time to reacquaint themselves with their parents’ wisdom and skills.
We camped for a week at Cape Vidal. We had been there last year, and we knew that the camping area was never full and that there would be no need to book. Fortunately, we double checked a couple of days before we started out and managed to get the last site. It was the last few weeks of the Shad fishing season and the whole place was teeming with very serious fishermen. Even to extent of fitting aerated fish tanks on the front of their 4 x 4s to hold the live bait! Notwithstanding that we had a very pleasant time. The camp sites are enormous, there are vast stretches of beach to escape to, and one does not feel crowded at all. We even had a few fresh fish meals.
Campfire at Camp Vidal. John, Sean, Michael (sleeping), Jean and Kerryn.
A crowded beach just north of Cape Vidal
When our week was up, Michael, Fiona, Keith and Kerryn went back to Durban and we took Sally to Mkuze Game Reserve. It was here that we came across the Night Raiders. Who, or what, are the Night Raiders? We, as you may well have guessed, are about to tell you.
Mkuze – Harald the Warthog performing his daily ablutions.
When you enter Mkuze camping area there are various signs warning of the nefarious habits of the local monkeys. Believe it, they live up to their reputation, they will steal you blind in no time. Jean was cutting up a pineapple for breakfast, she turned around to talk to Sally, and there it was gone! Sean of course got the blame, and it was only when we saw the monkey sitting in the tree munching away and waving a victorious two fingers at us, that he was exonerated. To dissuade these marauders, tents are firmly secured, and all the dustbins have heavy spring-loaded lids.
Came our first night. The camp is open to the bush, and some of you may remember us telling you about the visit of Rupert the White Rhino when we were here last. Anyway, there we were tucked up in our beds when we heard hoof beats. Aah the sounds of the bush…… then CLANG!!! and various other clangs in succession.
It was the dustbin lids making the noise, but how?
Monkeys? No not strong enough. Baboons? Don’t think so, anyway they’re not nocturnal.
Nobody, you understand, was interested enough to go outside to have a look. In fact Sally was so nonchalant about the whole thing that she disappeared into her sleeping bag and covered her head with her pillow.
Next morning our neighbours solved the problem for us. Horses!!
Five horses belonging to the Conservator, would come into the camp at night and take it in turns to lift the dustbin lids with their nozzles whilst the others stuck their heads in and raided the bins. And they say the monkeys are smart! Mind you there must have been a few bruised heads and Equine curses before they perfected the technique. Anyway, we spent easier nights after that and thoroughly enjoyed our stay.
It’s a long way down to get a drink.
Sally under a tree in Africa – possibly where the wedding idea came from.
Happy Hour at Kuma Hlala waterhole.
We eventually set out on this stage of our trek on September 18th. We took an easy journey up to Pretoria via Harrismith (2 degrees C in the morning). We stayed with an old school pal of Jean’s in Pretoria and spent a couple of days exploring. Amazing how big the place is. Our visit to Jan Smuts house at Irene was very interesting. The house itself was a British Army regimental mess. It was pre constructed in the UK, saw service in India, then Bloemfontein where Smuts bought it and moved it to Irene. And not a small house either. It seems that it was here that some of the Greek royal family stayed during the last war.
Seems that old Jan was a bit of a Royalty freak, there are letters from, and pictures of, the British Royals all over the place. Bet you he didn’t think that was going to happen when he was making a nuisance of himself at the turn of the century.
After Pretoria we overnighted at Louis Trichardt and crossed into Zimbabwe via Beit Bridge. The customs and immigration formalities were trouble free. In fact (touch wood) we have never really had any problems at borders. (Having said that we’ll probably be slung into chooky at the next one!) Customs and Immigration people have never been chosen for their charm wherever they are – try Heathrow or Athens for a start – yet there are still people who insist at going at them like a bull at a gate and then wonder why they come up with the sticky end of the stick.
We saw a prime example at the SA side. Some young berk came charging up to the Senior immigration officer (rather a large black lady) and asked her in a petulant voice whether “Everybody was so rude at this border post”. Seems that one of the customs guys had been a little offish. She took it amazingly well, suggesting that sometimes some people have a bad day, but if he wished to put his complaint in writing in the receptacle provided, she would have it attended to. In other parts of the world, Van der Merwe, Smith, or Georgiades, would have had his guts for garters, especially when he went on to tell her that he had dual nationality. Hope the twit was a little more circumspect when he got to the other side.
After the border we headed for Masvingo where we spent a few days looking at the Great Zimbabwe and the surrounding area. We camped on Lake Mutirikwe (formerly Lake Kyle) at Mutirikwe Lake Shore Lodges – it’s all right, but not on our must go back there, list.
Mutirikwe Gorge – below dam wall.
We first tried Sitako Fishing Camp, rustic and, we thought our style. Having dragged the van down 6 km of track we come to the camp and are met by Smiley Face.
” Any hot water?” we inquire.
“Eeaah sorry, problem” came the reply. “No water at all!”
Ah well, back up the track we went.
We refer to Smiley Face, and that is something that we have remarked on before. As soon as you cross the border the demeanour of the local populace changes to smiling friendliness. Of course, you must still keep your eyes open and be wary in the towns, but otherwise they are delightful warm and friendly people.
Great Zimbabwe ruins – inside enclosure looking back to hilltop.
Looking down from hilltop
Great Zimbabwe was, at the risk of sounding churlish, a bit of a let-down. We had the impression that we were to see the remains of an ancient stone city. This is not the case, the stonework, which is indeed very impressive, is mainly immense walls and gateways. The dwellings that the walls encased were the same wattle and daub that they have been throughout the centuries. The odd structures that the fundis are not too sure about have been labelled “phallic symbols”. Strange how this term gets bandied about at will. Imagine how peeved the monks at Glendalough would have been if their carefully constructed defence towers had been so labelled – or the Martello towers.
Towers or phallic symbols?
We are now at our planned destination. Marion and Tony Wehlberg’s garden on Ijapo farm at Chegutu, some 120 kms SSW of Harare. Marion and Tony are semi-retired and help their son Brian run the farm. They also welcome caravanners. They can take up to 3 in their garden (regrettably no children) and provide electricity and the use of a bathroom. All at a very, very reasonable price.
The farm is partially arable, tobacco, maize and paprika, and the remainder is bush, where they raise Tuli cattle. It’s quite incredible, the cattle are channelled in the bush by immense lengths of electric wire fence, and feed direct from the scrub. Notwithstanding this they are very healthy-looking beasts.
The Mupfure River carves a huge gorge through the land and today we have been walking along it and exploring. Fish abound in the river and the dams. Bream, Barbel, Bass, Mudfish, and small Tiger. Strangely, Sean hasn’t managed to catch any yet.
Wildlife, other than 428 varieties of bird, is not plentiful but it is here. Leopard, Sable, and various other buck, also, unfortunately rather a lot of snakes (one of the reasons that they don’t encourage children.) Brian runs a hunting concession and has a bush camp down on the river about 10 km away (this is a big farm). Yanks (sorry Houston) are coming in tomorrow for a few days to hunt Leopard. After they go, we will go down and spend 3 nights there – hope they don’t make the Leopard too cross. Just under R 70 per night for the whole camp – it sleeps 6 in 3 open A frame bashas but glory of glory it has a flush loo and a cold-water shower.
Prices in Zimbabwe are not bad – provided that you don’t live here. The exchange rate is just over 6 Z$ to the Rand and at that rate most of the groceries and fuel are similar to SA. The game reserves on the other hand are horrific. Hwange wants USD 40 per head per night to camp plus, we believe, the normal vehicle entrance fees. We doubt if we will visit them, but with a place like this, who the Hell wants to.