June 2nd 1998 : We’re at Cape Vidal

Life is still good.

The fishing has been interesting – some bream and galjoen – but not outstanding, in any event we have only just finished Mike’s Kob, and the mussels make up for the rest.

The camp sites here are set in quite dense bush behind the dunes. Facilities are good and we have daily visits from bush buck, red duiker, louries, horn bills and a myriad of WTBHITs (What the Bloody Hell is that?) and —Monkeys !!
The Monkeys, Samangos and Vervets are a great pain. The other morning we were having a lie in (it was 06:30) when we heard a loud tearing noise. There was a ruddy great ape staring in through the “pop top” and demolishing the mosquito netting. Much shouting and screaming and our visitor wanders off down the path, looking disdainfully over his shoulder, and displaying a pair of bright blue testimonials – rather like a “Blou Kappie” in reverse. Thereafter out came the Cattie and the war has been waging ever since. So far we haven’t broken any windows – just – but on the other hand we don’t seem to be distressing the monkeys too much either.

Our days here are spent, in the early mornings, consulting our Roberts CD to try and identify the various bird calls, and the rest of the morning and afternoon on the beach. Going North you can drive up the beach for a long way – way past Sodwana, which is 70 k from here – and South we can go for about 10 k. We have done the Sodwana trip once, for fuel and comms (there is no Diesel at Vidal, and obviously not too many yuppies, because, unlike Sodwana, you can’t get cell reception).

The alternate road to Sodwana Bay.

Jean and Sean South of Cape Vidal

The Southern route is pleasanter, and we luxuriate in swimming and fishing on a large expanse of beach all to ourselves, barring the odd gull and fish eagle. Talking of fish eagles, we forgot to tell you amongst the excitement of Mike’s Kob, about the fish eagle at Fanies.

Mike and Sean were fishing in Misafi and actually discussing the lack of eagles when a small bream committed suicide by swallowing bait and hook. After extracting the hook as painlessly as possible (That bit is for the Greenies), we consigned him to the deep. Then, swoosh, out of the blue, a magnificent fish eagle swooped down over our heads to grab the fish out of the water not twenty feet from us. Actually, he rather stuffed it up. All the films and ads show the eagle getting his prey first off. This one missed first time and had to come back for another go. In any event it was a sight to remember.

The other day Sean did his back in. There he was, minding his own business, when “twang” went a string in his back. As Sean has a very finely tuned body, this was not to be unexpected. Anyway, it is merely a pulled muscle and can be fixed with TLC, Hankey Bannister’s patent muscle relaxant, and no bed making for 8 years. Jean as always has come to the fore. She has learnt how to ease the burden on her poor husband’s back by identifying Red Bait and cutting it from the rocks, and she will soon (very, very soon) learn how to put her own bait on and take her own ruddy fish off the hook. Particularly when said fish are bigger and more plentiful than Sean’s.

Cape Vidal is run by Ron and Sharon Joubert. We have met them before, and their son Mark knows our Michael and is also in shipping – (he has just joined MUR). Yesterday afternoon they gave us the key to access the Bhangazi Bush Lodge. It’s about 4 km off the main road and the lodge overlooks Lake Bhangazi. We spent a pleasant late afternoon watching Hippo and buck, with a suitcase of wine and – a large flask of tea.

TOAD IN THE BOWL

Yesterday Jean went into the Ablutes and noticed to her distaste that there was a “floater” still in the loo. Suddenly the “floater”, blinked, croaked, and showed a clean pair of webbed heels as it disappeared round the S bend. – A sort of froggy version of that scene in “Train Spotters”!

Today we’re off to Sodwana – to send this, and on Friday we move on to Mkuze. – we think. Thank you all for your various Emails. Hope we will get some more this afternoon.